National Pike, Road of History, Romance

Wednesday, March 23, 1955 page 9 of The Washington Reporter, Washington, Pennsylvania by Earle R. Forrest

(Continued from yesterday)

TAVERNS AND TOWNS
     In traveling over the pike I found many of the old taverns still standing, 
and located the sites of others that had vanished with the years. In 
gathering this information I made many trips between West Brownsville 
and West Alexander, interviewing older people who remembered these old 
taverns and who could give definite information as well as legends 
that had been handed down by their fathers. In the work I also used Searight’s 
book as a guide, and found that he was very accurate as to mile, locations 
and the people who ran these taverns and wagon stands. I considered 
this to be very important before the passing years would wipe out the 
history of the old road through Washington County.
     For many years I have made a collection of historical items on the 
Old Pike, found in the files of The Washington Reporter and The Washington 
Examiner. These give much important history of locations of taverns, 
stage drivers and events that occurred along the pike in Washington 
County.

West Brownsville
     Beginning at West Brownsville I started to locate the points of 
interest. I found that Searight missed some points and incidents of historic 
interest, which I describe as we travel over the old pike. I was fortunate in 
finding a number of persons along the route who gave me good descriptions 
of old taverns and life on the road of long ago.
     West Brownsville, first town on the west side of the Monongahela 
River, was a very important point on the pike. Many stage passengers 
and some emigrants who had the money left the pike at Brownsville, 
Fayette County, and embarked down the river to Pittsburgh and Wheeling; but 
most of the emigrants and a large number of stage passengers, probably the 
majority, cross the river at West Brownsville, and went overland across 
Washington County to Wheeling. The same was true of the journey from West 
to East. Washington County was the short cut and it saved more time than 
the longer river route. This was as important in those days as it is now. 
As I have stated the construction of the pike reached West Brownsville 
in 1818.

The Covered Bridge
     In the early days of the old emigrant road before the pike was built 
the only means of crossing the Monongahela at this point was by ferry, 
which was operated as early as 1794 by John Krepps. This gave the early 
village the name of Krepps Ferry. The ferry was located a few hundred 
yards above the present bridge and in the rear of the Owen’s Tavern.
     As early as 1810 a toll bridge was projected across the river, for 
in that year the legislature passed an act authorizing the Governor 
to incorporate a company to build a toll bridge at this crossing. 
Neil Gillespie, the grandfather of James G. Blaine was named as one of the 
commissioners to solicit subscriptions, but the bridge was not built, 
probably because the necessary stock was not subscribed.
     During the 13 years following the construction of the pike all stage 
coaches, Conestoga wagons and other vehicles, together with droves of 
cattle, horses, swine and sheep, crossed the river at Krepp’s Ferry.
     In addition to the delay caused in travel and transportation 
because there was no bridge, mail was often held up by ice. This is shown by 
an item in The Examiner of January 28, 1828:
     “Owing to the danger from ice in crossing the river at Brownsville, 
we have and no mail from Washington City since Monday last. People are 
therefore dissatisfied at such delay, as very naturally they would be 
and some intimate the necessity of Congress instituting an inquiry 
respecting the cause why the Monongahela Bridge on the National Road at 
that place is not erected.”
     Delays of more than a week, as in this case, were probably frequent 
during every winter until the bridge was finally erected, not by the Federal 
Government, but by a private company.
     The next move for a bridge was in 1830 when the State of Pennsylvania 
took over from the Federal Government the section of the pike lying 
within the borders. A company was incorporated that year with Ephriam L. 
Blaine, the father of James G. Blaine, as one of the contractors. 
This company erected a covered wooden bridge in 1833, and during nearly 80 
years this was a toll bridge.
     This was one of the most historic bridges on the entire route of 
the National Pike, and for more than three quarters of a century travel and 
traffic of all descriptions passed over it—stage coaches, Conestoga 
and farm wagons; all kinds of private vehicles, both ox and horse 
drawn, including sleds, sleighs, Dearborns, sulkies, chairs or chaises, 
chariots, private coaches, phaetons, and carts, all vehicles that have 
vanished in the clouds of yesteryear and are almost unknown today, and 
drivers of horses, cattle, hogs, and sheep and even turkeys, all in one 
long cavalcade of travel in the glamorous 19th century. History marched 
over that old bridge in one grand pageant 80 years long—Presidents 
and statesmen on their way to and from the National Capitol, emigrants 
in covered wagons to seek new homes in the West, Forty-Niners bound for 
California; Indians and Indian fighters of the old regular army; soldiers 
fresh from the battlefields of Mexico and the Civil War, and soldiers 
of 1898, down to automobiles of the early 1900’s.
     Finally in 1910 the War Department declared that the old bridge was 
an obstruction to modern river traffic, and when it was removed travel 
once more crossed on a ferry as it had a hundred years before. This 
continued until the present steel bridge was opened.
     The old bridge was sold to the Pennsylvania and Pittsburgh and Lake 
Erie railroads, traffic over it closed on September 25, 1910, and the 
next morning the work of tearing it away, was started. That some morning 
two ferry boats were placed in operation.
     On the evening of October 13, after much of the covering had been 
removed, a strong cable was fastened around the heavy timbers of the truss 
and the other end tied to the steamer Robert Jenkins, commanded by Captains 
Shaw and Donaldson. The original was given when all was clear, and the 
steamer backed down the river. There was a long steady pull, the great oak 
timbers cracked and cried out in protest, and then the entire structure 
fell into the river with a crash that could be heard from more than a 
mile and a mighty splash that drenched hundreds of spectators who lined 
the river banks on both sides. The old covered bridge was no more.
     The present steel bridge was completed and formally opened for traffic 
by Governor John K. Taner on September 8, 1914. Figures in the County
Engineer’s office show that the old bridge was 66 feet long from face to 
face of the abutments. The water span of the present bridge is 681.75 
feet but the total length of this bridge over both land and approaches 
and water is 983.75 feet.

Birthplace of James C. Blaine
     West Brownsville is noted as the birth place of James G. Blaine, 
one of our most famous statesmen of the 19th Century and one of Washington 
County’s most distinguished son. The house in which he was born January 
31, 1830, was torn down some time in the 1890’s, but the location 
is marked by an historical marker placed by the Pennsylvania Historical 
and Museum Commission. After graduating from Washington College in the 
class of 1847, Blaine located in Maine, from which he served as a representative 
in the 38th and 44th Congresses, and as United States Senator from 1863 
to 1883. In 1881 he was appointed by President Garfield as Secretary 
of State; and in 1884 he was Republican Candidate for President, but was 
defeated by Grover Cleveland when he failed to carry New York State by 
less than 100 votes in 1889. President Harrison again named him Secretary 
of State, in which office he served until his death on January 27, 1893. 
Born on the National Pike, where he spent his youth, he knew the life of 
the old road during its greatest years, and its memories were cherished 
by him all his life.
     On October 22, 1886, Mr. Blaine returned to Washington County for 
the first time in many years. As this was an important event in the history 
not only of the County, but of the old pike, I will give a rather 
full account, taken from The Reporter of October 23 and 25, 1886.
     At West Brownsville he visited the house where he was born, only to 
find that the ruthless hand of time had made many changes as it often 
does. He probably wished that he had not come, for he found the old home 
of his early boyhood dilapidated, dismal and gloomy; but for all it was 
dear to the great statesman. However the old home then falling in ruin 
left a deep ache in his heart.
     Pointing to the house he remarked: “That part of the old stone end 
is 80 years old.”
     As he turned to the nearby river he described the surroundings 
of his boyhood, “Ah, how things have changes over there. We had a lovely 
garden, and this was a fine yard all the way down to the river bank. I 
must go up and see the room in which I first saw the light of day, it 
is up there, in that corner,” and he pointed to a second story window.
     As he entered what was once the well kept, comfortable home of his 
boyhood, now little more than a ruin, and climbed the creaky old stairway 
to the room a look of disappointment swept over his face. Slowly turning 
to a boyhood friend he quietly said, “This is not the room. Although 
I left this house when but five years old, I am positive I would know it. 
This is not the room.” He left the house, visibly shaken and sad with 
disappointment.
     He spoke that night to the people of Brownsville, and early the next 
morning set out with his party to drive over the old pike to Washington.
     Before leaving he paid a visit to Johnny Malone, an Irishman 
who had worked for his father, and visited the house where he went to 
live when five years old. When he saw an old man sitting on a bench 
in front of a dingy little house, quietly smoking his pipe, a look of 
recognition passed over his face, and the great statesman jumped from the 
buggy. As the old man arose, Mr. Blaine asked, “Do you know me, Joseph 
Williams?”
     “Yes, Jim Blaine, I remember you as a lad when I worked on all the 
farms hereabouts,” and tears streamed down the old man’s face as he warmly 
shook “Jim’s” hand.
     At Beallsville he was welcomed by a large crowd, and over the village 
store was a “Blaine and Logan” banner, when he reached Scenery Hill he 
was welcomed by another old friend. Representative Brit Hart, whose 
little daughter gave him a bouquet.
     The reception committee from Washington met him at Doaksville, 
known today as The Doak fruit farm. The Doak home, still standing, 
was once the Harting Tavern, a famous stopping place in the days of the 
old pike and was well remembered by Mr. Blaine. This old house is now 
the home of Rollo V. Doak.
     The time of his arrival in Washington was uncertain, but before he 
reached the town many carriages had joined the procession and a long 
line of vehicles followed Mr. Blaine. Arriving at 1:30 p.m., he went 
immediately to the residence of his uncle, Major John H. Ewing, in East 
Beau street, where he took dinner. Major Ewing’s residence was razed 
about 1899, by Dr. Joseph Thistle and a row of apartment houses was 
erected. In 1954 this building was torn down by the Bell Telephone 
Company for the erection of a  modern telephone exchange.
     After dinner Mr. Blaine marched with the college students, 230 strong, 
to the Washington and Jefferson campus, where he made a brief address.
     Later, in company with S. B. Elkins, who had accompanied him on his 
journey, and William Smith, Washington banker and merchant. He visited 
the famous Bunghole and several other oil and gas wells in that vicinity.
     During a reception held that evening in the college chapel, with Dr. 
James D. Moffat standing at Mr. Blaine’s side, the famous statesman 
met many old friends, and classmates and remembered over the old days more 
than 40 years past, when he was just Jim Blaine, a student at Washington 
College.
     When one lady came up to him he grasped her hand, and exclaimed: 
“You are Mrs. John A. Wills. No,” he quickly added, “Miss Madeleine 
LeMoyne, I mistook you for your sister.”
     This lady was later Mrs. Madeleine LeMoyne Reed, who died October 27, 
1943, at the age of 100 years, five and 18 days. She bequeathed the old 
LeMoyne homestead to the Washington Historical Society. She will be mentioned 
later.
     When a niece of Joshua Wright was introduced she told him that her 
father was his classmate and had often told stories of their college 
days. With a twinkle in his eyes, Mr. Blaine shyly replied, “I am afraid 
to ask what those stories are.”
     When another woman approached Mr. Blaine said to his uncle, Major 
Ewing, “Don’t tell me who this lady is.” Then he called Miss Jennie 
Burd by her full name, although he had not seen her for a quarter 
of a century.
     The next day, Sunday, he attended morning services in the First 
Presbyterian Church where the sermon was delivered by the Rev. Dr. 
Patterson, of Philadelphia. In the evening he went to the Methodist 
Church in company with his uncle and Marshal John Hall. Both churches 
were crowded. The next morning he visited William Smith at Trinity 
Hall, where he lingered on the porches, viewing the scenery of his college 
days; and after a call upon Mr. And Mrs. George Adams, friends of his 
youth, he left for Pittsburgh in the afternoon. This was Mr. Blaine’s 
last visit to Washingnton County.
     It is interesting to not that Mr. Blaine was the second famous 
man entertained by William Smith at Trinity Hall. President Grant, a 
personal friend of William Smith of years standing was entertained 
here several times—once in September, 1869, again in 1873, and the last 
time in April, 1897. There were other visits of which the record is not known. 
General Grant’s first visit to Washington was June 12, 1867, when he 
was entertained at the Smith home in the old brick building on the Gree 
Tree Corner of Main and East Beau streets.
(To Be Continued)

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